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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.